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The first sniff, sip and swallow will quickly reveal why 100% blue agave tequilas are so tremendously popular. Ounce for ounce, these ultra-premium tequilas are comparable in quality and allure to vintage malts and well-aged cognac. Their extraordinary characters are so remarkably rich and vibrant that you're left with the unmistakable conclusion that this is how tequila is meant to taste.
These are the best of times for the category. The Margarita is the most popular cocktail in America, and a wide range of classes of tequila is used to create a dizzying number of distinctive Margaritas. At the same time, interest in handcrafted tequilas has been nothing short of phenomenal and has helped propel the category to robust growth of 10% in 2007, the steepest increase of the light liquors, out-pacing the growth of vodka (6.7%) and rum (5.1%)--according to the Beverage Information Group. Considering that tequila constitutes only about 6% of the American spirits market, there is tremendous opportunity for continued growth.
"I'm confident that in the foreseeable future tequila will challenge vodka as America's spirit of choice," contended Gary Shansby, founder and chairman of Partida Tequila. "Tequila has everything consumers are looking for in a spirit--body, texture, enticing aromatics, layers upon layers of sensational flavors, and unlimited drink applications."
As their labels clearly state, 100% agave tequilas are single-ingredient products. They're distilled using nothing other than blue agave, a majestic green succulent related to the aloe. While there are nearly 360 varieties of the agave, tequila can only be made from the Weber blue agave. Imported into the U.S. by Bing Crosby and Phil Harris in the early 1960s, Herradura was the first brand of 100% agave tequila available in the U.S.
Crafting great tequila is a labor- and time-intensive process. Agaves mature at their own pace irrespective of demand. It takes the plant between eight to twelve years to reach maturity and optimally is harvested when the plant's natural sugar content has peaked at about 21 to 25 brix. The agave thrives in rich volcanic soil, and a warm and dry climate. As it is with wine, the appellation and growing region the agaves were cultivated in is a point of distinction between brands.
The differences between brands of 100% agave tequilas are years in the making, and taking shortcuts during the production process consigns a brand to mediocrity. From harvesting agaves to the un-barreling of an anejo, the production cycle can exceed 15 years.
Like champagne and cognac, tequila has its own appellation, Denominacion de Origen, which delineates growing regions and specifies ingredient content. Since 1993, the production of tequila has been strictly regulated by the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila), whose symbol appears on every label of tequila. The agency rigorously enforces quality standards throughout all segments of the industry, including agave growers, distillers (tequileros), bottlers, and marketers.
The growing legions of tequila aficionados are likely as attracted to the romance of discovery, as they are to the irresistible appeal of the spirit. For many, the appreciation of fine tequila requires sampling new brands and styles. There's a joy to the discovery, a process without limitations, and if your retail shelves provide the visa and port of entry, you'll be the long-term beneficiary.
"Tequila enthusiasts revel in discovering new and exciting brands, proving themselves to be ahead of the curve by introducing them to their circle of friends," said Christopher Zarus, president of the International Tasting Group, importers of six small-batch, limited-production reposados. "Consumers are using the Internet to learn about rare and fascinating tequilas, which has further fueled interest in the category. The steadily increasing sales of ultra-premium brands confirm that we've developed a taste for the good stuff."
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Senior Class Anejos
After more than six years of deliberation, the CRT has created the designation o Extra Anejo, which signifies that a 100% agave tequila has been aged for three years or more. For generations, these ultra-luxurious spirits were reserved for the private use of the maestro tequilero and family, but now any commoner with a few extra hundred dollars in their pocket can afford what many consider the epitome of the craft.
Well before this new designation was put into effect, a handful of these rare anejos have been thriving in the U.S. Among them is the acclaimed Herradura Seleccion Suprema, which was likely the first extended age tequila Americans had ever experienced ... and it was good.
Introduced in 1995 in honor of the company's 125th anniversary, Herradura's present to mankind is a masterpiece handcrafted from estate-grown agaves, and aged 49 months in select white oak barrels. Production of Seleccion Suprema is limited to less than 2,000 bottles a year, which partially accounts for the $250 price tag.
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Scarcity and demand though doesn't begin to explain the tequila's intrinsic value. With its wafting floral bouquet and bakery-fresh flavors, Herradura's famed extra anejo is a celebration of style, and homage to the terroir of Amatitan. Appropriately enough, Seleccion Suprema is presented in an individually numbered decanter.
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Also making its American debut in 1995 was vintage-dated Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia. As the name suggests, for two centuries this highly prized spirit remained the private domain of Jose Cuervo and his descendants. It was finally released to commemorate their 200th anniversary.
The arrival of limited edition Reserva de la Familia had the same impact on American drinking trends as the Seleccion Suprema. Few in this country had ever tasted a tequila of this magnitude and intensity. The Reserva is an engaging spirit with a lustrous amber color, generous bouquet, and a spicy, oaky palate that gradually subsides into a cognac-like finish.
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This noble anejo is crafted from a blend of the finest aged tequilas in their cellars, all of which have been matured for a minimum of three years in both new charred French and American oak barrels. Underscoring its artisan nature, Reserva de la Familia is bottled, labeled, numbered and sealed in wax by hand.
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These museum-grade tequilas redefined our concept of luxury living. By the time 1996 rolled around, aficianados in droves were trading in their shot glasses for brandy snifters.
Many of the perennial heavyweights in the category hail from the rugged highlands of Jalisco. El Tesoro de Don Felipe Paradiso is a five-year old extra anejo handcrafted from a blend of aged tequilas selected for their distinctive characteristics. The extra anejo is then further matured in French oak casks previously used by A. de Fussigny Cognac, the effect of which can be appreciated throughout its sultry character. If it's true that ingenuity is the mother of invention, then double-barreled Paradiso is a stroke of genius.
Equally exquisite is Don Julio 1942, a highly acclaimed ultra-premium made at La Primavera distillery under the supervision of legendary tequilero, Don Julio Gonzalez Estrada. Issued to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Don Julio's first distillery, the limited edition extra anejo spends a minimum of three years in oak, during which it develops a satiny, medium-weight body, and the enticing flavors of vanilla, fruit, spice and toasty oak. The lingering finish is sweet and sublime.
The world's bestselling brand of 100% agave tequila recently launched its most inspired and compelling marque to date, Gran Patron Burdeos. Debuting at around $500, Burdeos is made from a blend of anejos aged more than a year in American and French oak. The tequila is then transferred to ex-Bordeaux barrels and racked for a year or more in the cellars of Patron's hacienda in the highlands of Jalisco. Over that time the tequila develops a dark honey/amber hue and a bouquet of lightly spiced, floral and fruity aromas. It has a velvety, surprisingly light body, and a captivating palate of nutty, and wine-induced flavors. The finish is long and thoroughly satisfying.
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Award-winning Milagro Select Barrel Reserve Anejo is triple-distilled exclusively from estate-grown agaves and aged no less than three-years in new French oak barrels. Made in the town of Tepatitlan in the highlands of Jalisco, this ultra-sophisticated extra anejo has a voluptuous body and a bouquet brimming with oaky, peppery and herbaceous aromas. The tequila quickly fills the mouth with the appetizing flavors of toffee, honey, and vanilla with delightfully spicy notes, all of which thankfully linger on the palate for an impressively long time.
Hacienda Los Camachines has extended its range of tequilas with the release of Gran Centenario Leyenda Extra, a highly seductive anejo aged for an average of four-years in French Limousin oak. To enhance the depth and complexity of Leyenda's blend, the maestro tequilero adds rare reserve anejos selected from the Hacienda's 150-year old cellars. The result is a world-class extra anejo with a dark amber color, aromas of vanilla, clove and oak, and a long, flavorful finish.
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Also worthy of grand cru status is Casa Noble Anejo Limited Reserve. Made in the town of Tequila at the La Cofradia Distillery, this regal anejo is triple-distilled in alembic stills and matured for five years in French white oak barrels. Produced in limited quantities, the anejo has a silky texture, delectably spicy palate, and a sweet, slightly smoky finish.
Ultra-Purity, Ultra-Premium
Partida is one of the fastest-growing brands ultra premium tequila in the country and Partida Elegante is certainly helping to spur interest in the high end. One of the first tequilas to bear the extra anejo designation on its label, Elegante is handmade under the direct supervision of maestro tequilero Enrique Partida at the family's estate outside of Amatitan, Mexico. The savory tequila is distilled entirely from estate-grown agaves, and matured in American oak barrels for 36 to 40 months. It has a radiant golden hue, captivating layers of dry spicy flavors, and a long memorable finish. Partida Elegante is too marvelous to share with the in-laws.
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Another brand on the charts with a bullet is 4 Copas, a masterfully crafted range of 100% agave tequilas. Made at La Quemada Distillery in the lowlands of Jalisco, recently released 4 Copas Extra Anejo is distilled using certified organic agaves, and matured for a minimum of 54 months in American white oak. It is redolent with the aromas of vanilla, honey and ripe red fruit, and has a leisurely finish loaded with dry, spicy flavors. The thoroughly enjoyable anejo retails for under $200, which makes tit an affordable slice of heaven.
Created in 1996 by ex-Van Halen rocker Sammy Hagar, super-premium Cabo Wabo 100% agave tequilas have generated considerable excitement in their brief, yet illustrious careers. Fans of the brand will delight in Cabo Uno Anejo Reserva, an extra anejo aged 38-months in both French and American oak barrels. Limited in production to only 1,800 cases a year, the tequila has an herbal and spice bouquet, a dry full palate, and a slightly smoky finish.
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Ultra-premium El Diamante del Cielo Anejo is triple-distilled in state of the art pot stills from estate-grown agaves, and aged up to four years in oak. The limited production tequila is a handcrafted treat possessing a brilliant array of spicy, semi-sweet aromas, and has an expansive palate loaded with the flavors of caramel, black pepper and succulent fruit. The warm finish is long and flavorful.
Sipping any one of these spectacular anejos reinforces why so many people are enamored with tequila. We should all have futures as bright.
Sizzling New Blancos
The surest way to assess the attributes of a tequila brand is to sample a distiller's blanco, or plata version. Barrel aging has a profound affect on tequila. Over time, wood imparts tannins that soften and mellow the spirit. Blanco tequilas though are unadulterated, and typically bottled fresh from the still. When well crafted they're vibrant, bursting with flavor, and best represent the compelling qualities of tequila.
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So in case you've missed the initial fanfare over their release, here is our take on new silvers destined to make an impact.
Artisanal Jose Cuervo Platino 100% Agave Tequila is a genuinely charming spirit with tremendous depth of character. Platino grabs your attention at once with a medley of citrus, fruity, and lightly peppered aromas. It has a curvaceous body and layered palate of ripe plums, figs, toasted oak, black pepper and spice. The warm, lingering finish seals the deal.
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Those who find themselves with a palpable thirst should invest in a bottle of Grin Patron Platinum 100% Agave Tequila. To produce a lighter-bodied spirit, the tequila is run through the alembic still a third time. In addition, a portion of each batch is aged briefly in American oak barrels and then blended back. Grin Patron Platinum has a satiny medium-weight body, aromas of citrus and black pepper, and a finish best described as luxurious and eminently satisfying.
By far the most innovative and interesting brand making its American debut is ultra-premium p.i.n.k. 100% Agave Tequila. Hide at the famed La Cofradia Distillery, this superior blanco tequila is delectable in every respect. It has a marvelous mouth feel, wafting floral and spice bouquet, and an extended, flavorful finish. Perhaps the tequila's most singular feature is its natural infusion of flavorless caffeine and guarana. Stimulating and delicious is an unbeatable combination.
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Also new to the American market is Luna Sueno Blanco, a superb, accessible, and light-bodied tequila with a reserved, yet delightful floral bouquet, and a palate featuring flavors of spice, honey and dried fruit. The warm finish is long and comforting. This superpremium newcomer will certainly receive an enthusiastic reception in the U.S.
The Class of 2008
As has been the case in years past, there continues to be a steady influx of new tequila brands into the market. After all, nothing breeds success like success. Several of the recent arrivals stand out as sure-fire prospects. High on the list is superpremium Tanteo Chocolate 100% Agave Tequila, one of three jalapeno-infused tequilas in the range, the others being Tanteo Tropical and Tanteo Jalapeno. Describing these handmade spirits as sensational would be selling them short.
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The jalapeno infusion imbues the Tanteo tequilas with a precise dose of peppery heat, a measure of sizzle that's impeccably balanced and amazingly delightful. The monster hit of the trio will likely be the Tanteo Chocolate Tequila. It's even dazzling alone in a glass. It has a pale Champagne hue, an irresistible cocoa and lightly peppered bouquet, and a velvety textured body. The palate is a lavish affair of creamy milk chocolate laced with jalapeno. Top-notch all the way.
Another lottery draft selection in 2008 is La Certeza 100% Agave Tequila. The range of small batch spirits are crafted at the state-of-the-art Tierra de Agaves distillery, which was founded in 2002 by Francisco Beckmann, former co-owner of Jose Cuervo. The ultra-premium tequilas are distilled entirely from agaves grown on the Beckmann Gonzalez 3,500 acre estate, land that has been in their family since 1758. La Certeza Tequilas are brimming with authentic character and pedigree, reflecting the inherited skill of the family's seven generations of maestro tequileros. Aged in both American white oak and French Limousin barrels, La Certeza Anejo is generously aromatic, and loaded with engaging semi-sweet flavors ($60 for a 750 ml).
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Tierra de Agaves has also introduced Lunazul 100% Agave Tequilas, a superpremium line of estate-grown, small-batch spirits offered in both blanco and reposado bottlings. The Lunazul Blanco has a wafting bouquet, and a long lasting citrusy, peppery and herbaceous finish. Aging in American oak imbues the Lunazul Reposado with the layers of semi-sweet vanilla, fruit and spice. These tequilas are priced well below what their quality might normally dictate ($20-$22).
Sauza extended the successful Hornitos franchise with the late-2007 release of Sauza Hornitos Anejo 100% Agave Tequila. Aged in American white oak barrels, the amber hued tequila has a decidedly spicier and more herbaceous character than famed Hornitos Reposado. The bouquet is pleasantly fruity and floral, while the palate exudes the semi-sweet flavors of vanilla and cocoa with slightly smoky notes. Like its predecessor, Hornitos Anejo is an extraordinary value ($30).
Robert Plotkin is a judge at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and has recently authored his 16th book, Secrets Revealed of America's Greatest Cocktails--The Hottest Spirits, Freshest Places and Coolest Drinks. He can be reached at www.BarMedia.com or by e-mail at robert@barmedia.com.
Leading Brands of Tequila (Thousands of 9-Liter Cases) 2007 Brand Supplier 2006 (p) % Chg Jose Cuervo Diageo 3,787 3,850 1.7% Patron The Patron Spirits 1,075 1,630 51.6% Company Sauza Beam Global Spirits & 1,369 1,445 5.6% Wine Montezuma Tequila Constellation Spirits 580 582 0.3% Juarez Luxco 475 550 15.8% 1800 Proximo Spirits 435 505 16.1% House of Cazadores Bacardi USA 227 273 20.3% Margaritaville Luxco 260 250 -3.8% El Jimador Brown-Forman 165 170 3.0% Beverages Tortilla White Rock 140 146 4.3% Distilleries Total Leading Brands 8,513 9,401 10.4% Others 1,482 1,529 3.2% Total Tequila 9,995 10,930 9.4% (p) Preliminary Source: Beverage Information Group
